I have never been to Mardi Gras in New Orleans. My uncle had one strict rule, no guests allowed on Mardi Gras because he wanted to party without the burden of entertaining family looking for free accommodations on this day (my words, not his). He always dressed in style and joined in the revelries of the day. I do remember one time he wore a mini skirt, white Go-Go boots and a large cornette, proclaiming himself to be the Flying Nun. I have been in Mobile on Mardi Gras several times but watched the parades on the local news coverage, so alas – no Moon Pies or beads from the Polka Dot Krewe. I don’t think I missed anything by missing either. I want my New Orleans without a throng of unnecessary rowdy tourists flashing for beads at parade floats. Without attending during Mardi Gras time, I can spend my days remembering the charm of the city in days of Yancy Derringer and without the debauchery for which Mardi Gras is renowned.
We have visited the Big Easy numerous times and we always ate at Felix’s Oyster Bar, our favorite restaurant. It is on Iberville Street near Bourbon Street. My uncle took us there back in the sixties, claiming that it was “where the locals ate.” It has a huge marble bar where the oysters are shucked and prepared for serving, creating a local atmosphere while not being filled with tourists.
In general, my idea of the French Quarter is all about Pirates’ Alley, Royal Street Antique Shops, and the French Market stalls selling souvenirs and vegetables. My daddy had a favorite store here too – a candle shop where he fell in love with the scented candles. Pralines, café au laits and beignets speak of the district as much as Hurricanes at Pat O’Brien’s – yes, I’ve had one, cocktails at Top of the Mart rotating bar on Canal Street – been there, had one, or the Absinthe Bar on Bourbon Street – and yes, I’ve had that flaming one there too.
The music rings out of the bars and into the streets and soon you are feeling that Dixieland Jazz coursing through your veins and know the Saints are marching down the street in spirit. It is in the very air that you breathe, somewhat of week-old garbage, smothered by the daily summer rains increasing the humidity of the already unbearable temperatures. But this Queen will call you back because part of you never left. If you have that dream of Southern Nights, Voodoo charm, good food, and overwhelming attraction, hop on a train called The City of New Orleans and go find yourself. It’s probably there all year, not just during Mardi Gras.
It is easy to create the Mardi Gras experience in the food with good friends and family. We can celebrate the season that leads into Lent, knowing that we have all it has to offer here in Tuscaloosa with special Creole Magic so Laissez les bon temps rouler with the Tide and let’s roll on the City of New Orleans.
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